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The Vatican secret archives have captured our imagination for centuries. Not just on account of their history, but also as a result of the stories and conspiracy theories that have been dedicated to them in films and literature alike. Every year about 1,500 scientists come here to do a unique research, but a reading room of Vatican Archives is as far as anyone gets. What lies beyond that? Will the archives of the secret library be available to anybody?
Gucci Cruise 2017, whose creative director is Alessandro Michele, consists of 87 visions, which are in the spirit of Michael Fish. Fashion for young people not yet recognized in the matrix of conformism and the constant social sex, whatever that means. The outfits are charming, remembering the British impulse - non-ideological dandy Alessandro Michele says: “Men's Cruise collection was an excellent occasion to outline my vision for eccentricity. It started from My enormous passion for England, I tried to describe what is happening in my imagination, which often reveals aesthetics very similar to English fashion."
After Florence and the color explosions there, another holiday of Italian dendism, like a breeze from the Tuscan wind ... Dandy Day RADUNO DANDY ITALIANO, in its first edition, found a matching decor among the antiquities of FIERA ANTIQUARIA DI AREZZO.
Pitti Uomo Firenze - the Spectacular composition of men’s elegance or the shortcut to the belief that the modern man is a Dandy
What is Pitti Uomo? A large and magnificent manifestation of men’s fashion exhibitionism without any holdbacks, blowing like a bottle of champagne and held in the historical center of Florence, Italy, where exhibitors carefully present their latest men’s collections. The latest men’s fashion trends are marked there, before the upcoming fashion events in Milan.
Men’s elegance on the Emmy Awards 2016 Red carpet - variations of tuxedo and even a try for a boutonnière
We asked the Men's Fashion Cluster Ambassador Dandy to comment on the style of the celebrities on the red carpet, as he has a sharp eye for style and a witty language. Here is what he told us about the dress code of the celebrities attending the Emmy Awards 2016:
Frenchmen call this hat 'chapeau melon' and Germans 'Melone' because it looks like a melon fruit. Until 1960s, the Bower hat was a symbol of London's brokers and bankers and today it's a mandatory attribute of the officers of the Queen's Guard as part of their urban civilian clothing.
For not so professional sport sailing, in the relatively calm Mediterranean sea, during the Summer season is typical a little more different style - a look for leisure time, inspired by the sea, which is not designed for dramatic climate changes, but fundamentally oriented towards the clothing of simple fishermen.
What is the main feature of the expensive men's suit in addition to the paid price? A monogram on the sleeve, a label with the customer's name on the inner side of the jacket and various other indications, according to gentleman's caprice and taste...
The suit must be worn with dignity and respect for yourself, the others and the qualities of the garment. It should be worn as it's a part of you, not as something bought and put on for the first time as an unbearable burden...
Saddle shoes are real classics for the weekend in New England or for the college look of the exclusive snobbish universities on the East Coast. For decades students and professors wear the immutable shoes with the typical reddish sole.
The Barbour jacket exists in three different fabric qualities - extra fine, fine and Thornproof (heavy waterproof material). For the production of this special and extremely strong material is used straticulate Egyptian cotton, woven with varying degrees of strength and finally impregnated with wax in a special way.
This phenomenon is a convincing proof that one product could be sold with no advertising, when it has a long decades of history behind.
By buying a Barbour jacket you will own not just a comfortable piece of cloth, great for rainy weather, but also a piece of the international life style. A piece, which belongs to the world of those, who have money, style and success.
Large collar with long edges and a single button is known as Classic Kent. It's suitable for formal events and small knot. It's a good choice for gentlemen who are definitely not fans of experimenting and fashion innovations. In short, we talk about a boring decision...
As we know, blue suits and gray suits are classics for men who don't want to risk their reputation - even if they are not politicians or businessmen. They are clean, simple and suits every occasion. But this monochromatic look is kind of background for this Summer season.
If you get inspired by the dandyism you can tie around you neck a necktie as a bow tie and break the administrative conventionality.
Even the most magnificent shirt would 'live' a fiasco if it's not in a resonance with the necktie and the suit jacket. And this means a lot of consideration of lengths, proportions, colors, patterns and details.
We've already mentioned that type of men's shirt collar, which is not buttoned around the neck and is meant for gentlemen, who don't wear neckties. So, this type of collar is suitable for the so-called Cravat (scarf-tie).
Talking about shirt fabrics connoisseurs think about English and Italian fabric mills' creations. Of course, they are well-known and appreciated, but some of the best ateliers and manufacturers of bespoke shirts chose fabrics by Swiss mill Alumo in Appenzell.
The modern men's shirt has a properly long history before acquiring its today's a little boring form in the end of the XIX century. In 1871 Brown, Davis & Co. of Aldermanbury manufactured the first shirt in 'coat style' (with buttons).
The one, who is searching for a shirt, which to fit perfectly to his bespoke suit, as we mentioned earlier, will find something in England, but... not exactly. None of the shirt makers on Jermyn Street actually offers really hand-sewn shirts.
At 71 Jermyn Street is located the legendary company Turnbull & Asser, which since 1904 offers an unimaginable variety of fabrics for bespoke and ready-to-wear shirts and neckties. If you want a bespoke shirt, you should order at least six pieces and the delivery time is 12 weeks.
To the British country life, among the Barbour jacket and the Hunter wellies, unconditionally belongs the checked shirt in the natural 'white' color of the wool, which is actually pale beige. But the key element of this shirt is the check in dark brown, wine red, green, blue and black, a.k.a Tattersall Check.
This type of shirt won his final and decisive victory during the 1980s, when every real Yuppie brought from New York a true Button-down shirt in pale blue, pink, white, yellow or mint, striped, checked or tartan.
To choose shoes in unobtrusive harmony with the rest of your look - and mainly with the suit - might be very easy or very difficult depending on criteria - are they formal or aesthetic.
The Duke of Windsor is mentioned talking about the so-called Windsor Knot - one legend, one mystification in the dummy world of fashion, although photos prove that he hasn't invent it.
Hot weather and Elegance? Two mutually exclusive concepts, but not entirely... Being elegant in the heat is absolutely possible if you are creative.
E. Marinella is an Italian necktie company founded by Eugenio Marinella in 1914 in Naples. The store provides finest bespoke ties for Neapolitans and gentlemen from all over the world, including Gorbachev, George Bush, Francois Mitterrand, Oscar Luigi Skalfaro and Helmut Kohl.
There are neckties made completely out of silk, which doesn't include lining of any other material. This rare and as a rule more expensive masterpiece is called 'seven-fold tie'.
One necktie by Hermes definitely belongs to the small group of exclusive products, which all over the world are recognized as a symbol of good taste. Surely there are ties, revealing even more refined sense of style and even more expensive and rare ties, but no other of them is recognized and admired by critics and fashion as much as Hermes necktie.
You will never find a wool or a textile necktie in the wardrobe of a British city-gentleman. He would wear a wool tie only in his countryside mansion, while knitted ties would leave with please for the people of art, science, literature and journalism, for their real or supposed rebelliousness and anti-conformism.
The most important sign for the quality of a tie unfortunately can't be represented - only felt. So before buying a tie, hold it in your hand, feel it - but not in the genre of sentimentality. It is good to check very carefully in silk creases. The touch of the silk is the first and best adviser. If you can define what you feel, you are on the right way.
A man who wears a tie in the colors of one division, college, school or club, shows his belonging to the institution and more over - to the good society. At least, that's how it is in England - the cradle of the neckties.
The real predecessor of ties is more likely the neck cloth from the middle of the XVII century, which become a mandatory part of the male clothing.
It takes some time until one piece of clothing become a classic. With Chinos it took about 100 years - from 1848 to 1950s.
No matter how beautiful or not your legs are and how hot it is outside, short pants remain questionable in stylistic terms for places different from beaches, camping areas and holiday villages. The only exceptions are the sport courts, where it's common for practical reasons to wear shorts - for example if you play football, basketball, tennis, etc.
Most men tend to consider that the cut of trousers depends on fashion whims and fancies. In reality, the details in the cut of trousers change season after season and the whole basis of the cut is changed every 10 years.
The sports jacket is a variable part of the gentleman's clothing, which for the joy of the eye, in combination with different trousers, gives a whole new outfit. Moreover, a sports jacket combined with flannel or cavalry twill is already perceived as a formal attire.
Dylan Jones has served as an editor of the UK version of men's fashion and lifestyle magazine GQ since 1999. He defines his book Mr Jones' Rules for the Modern Man as moderately successful.
The business suit for a man is like a business card in the society. It should fully represents the nature of the gentleman. Contempt to your suit is automatically contempt to your business.
Times, in which a man could be decorated with jewels as an Indian Maharaja, have passed. And within the business world wearing a lot of jewelry is an absolute fauxpas.
The transformation of a man into a wonderful frivolous mannequin, covered with draperies and Art Nouveau wine red, was a particularly intrusive trend during the latest edition of men's fashion platform Pitti Uomo.
Karl Lagerfeld appeared sensationally to open a retrospective exhibition and to receive the high award of Florence, Fiorino d'Oro. The exhibition KARL LAGERFELD_Visions of Fashion at the at the Palazzo Pitti, Florence, included more than 200 photos, following his career as a photographer.
For women, only a day dress with a hat is acceptable. For men, black or gray morning coat with top hat is required. During a wedding, traditionally only the groom wears gray.
For formal occasions and receptions, the dress code requires to add to your tailcoat a white scarf of fine cashmere lined with silk, which however is left with your coat or crape at the wardrobe.
Cufflinks are among those accessories, whose importance is inversely proportional to their size and whose power to finish the look is huge no matter of their small size.
Duffle coat is the only type of classic men's coats, equipped with a hood. This form of head protection has a prehistoric tradition since the Bronze Age.
SS 2016 collection by D&G is deeply inspired by The Chinese Palace of Palermo in designers' favorite Sicily - the main inspiration in all their work as they admit. In the past, the Chinese guest room in European palaces was a must.
Polo Coat is an American classic coat, although it's closely related to traditional and more elegant forms of coats like Paletot, Ulster, Guardscoat. Brooks Brothers has imported this style from England about 1910.
Crombie coat is a classic English coat for urban use. It's made of heavy wool and it's very appropriate for unpleasant Autumn and Winter days. It's most chic to wear a Crombie coat made by Tibbett - traditional coat maker since 1898.
The classic authentic trench-coat is a product - advertising fetish of Burberry and a synonymous of the best protective cloak. We've seen it on Humphrey Bogart in 'Casablanca' and Audrey Hepburn in 'Breakfast at Tiffany's'.
Loafers are the most elegant decision for hot month in informal situations. Comfortable moccasin-like slip-on shoes with decorative stitching, perfectly matching a Summer suit.
Suspenders (or Braces in British English) - this cute anachronism - are popular especially in England and the USA. Americans consider suspenders practical and comfortable with a hint of nostalgic feeling. For Englishmen - braces are part of the tradition.
One of the most elegant things that we can see on the feet of contemporary man - in excellent unison with his tuxedo or evening suit - are the Dress slippers.
The pocket square (aka pochette) is one of those ceremonial accessories, which highlight the originality of the gentleman - each of its crease talks about degrees of self-control and self-confidence.
To have a style means everything - from cufflinks to the cup of tea, from your dressing gown to the water taps in the bathroom - to be in wonderful harmony, instead of using the fetishes of the richness.
Two coryphaeus of the automatized for fashion goals self exposition are Viktor & Rolf. Although they are not twins, they put big efforts to take them as such and managed somehow by their slim fit suits, shortened pants and glossy hair.
Edward John David "Eddie" Redmayne is an English actor, model, singer and most of all - an ultra elegant man!
Browne's innovations in tailoring are identified in the gallant scandal and reconciliation of the paradigms of men's and women's fashion.
In a world where designers are appreciated more than craftsmen, Savile Raw remains one of the last bastions of traditional cutting and tailoring. There reigns strictly and traditional division of labor.
There is some strange exaltation in Ann Demeulemeester's huge eyes, marked in the Neo-gothic style of her designs. Ann always hyperbolises the stripes, the overall silhouette reminds about 'Pierrot' from the famous painting of Watteau.
Being in some way impartial, I can definitely say that in contemporary fashion I am especially surprised by Rick Owens, Haider Ackermann and Ann Demeulemeester. Particularly by the Antwerp-based Ann... She is absolutely and in the best sense of the word - crazy! And what connects all of them?
The window of Gieves & Hawkes is especially representative for Savile Row. Often the best tailors are in the smallest stores, but that's not the case with Gieves & Hawkes at 1 Savile Row, London, UK.
The style is not limited to clothing. There are various small additions, which complete the image, make it finer and insert special personality through one's choice.
David James Gandy was born in 1980 in Billericay, Essex, England, the son of working-class parents who ran a property and freight company.
What for many tailors is a dream, for Neapolitan Cesare Attolini has long ago came true - Sartoria Mediterranea is the place where about 180 people sew men's and women's clothing in two versions - fully hand-sewn and partly hand-sewn...
The gentleman has many exciting activities to which he proceeds with witty responsibility and doesn't fall so low to confuse them with the so-called work... And one of these fascinating activities is keeping a Boutonnière.
Luca Rubinacci is a real fashion sensation in London. He is the quintessence of the Neapolitan sartorial style combined with the British imperial conceptions of gentleman's wardrobe.
In other times and ages, not as neglected as the inconsolable modernity, a gentleman never went out on the street without a hat, a pair of gloves and a walking stick.
The man who puts on an extremely light Italian Summer suit for the first time is surprised that a suit can be sewn of such a breeze of a fabric.
Brooks Brothers is not only the largest supplier of men's suits in America, but also an American institution, recognized as the American flag and the Statue of Liberty.
If today Lewi's 501 are considered the 'absolute' jeans, they unconditional have their famous fans - Andy Warhol and his beloved assistant Vincent Fremont.
There is one young, moustached and long-haired tailor who shakes the old school of London bespoke tailoring with what the street calls 'coolness'. He is definitely not what you would expect if you are familiar with the traditionally conservative scene of Savile Row.
Famous pianist Glenn Gould, who has passed away happily while making music on his Steinway, always ordered a dozen of one model suits, shirts, shoes, etc. This is a very luxurious version of personality.
Cifonelli Spring-Summer 2016 collection is deliberately restrained and conservative. But the acute hysteria of male elegance streams out of it secretly. Nothing too much!
We know about the aristocratic's habit of giving pajama parties to which expensive brocades and silks shimmer in midnight on the bodies of sleepless night birds celebrities. But beyond that eccentricity, this two standards in menswear become flippantly popular.
The Norfolk jacket has more fans in England and Italy, but not in the conservative fields of bankers and insurers, although the sophistication of its cut could be on the level of the classic suit's.
The book (Released August 2013) documents the well-kept lives of 57 protagonists of contemporary dandyism from different cultures and societies, united by the beautiful and bold presentiment that dandy is not in the past, but differentiates in a full diversity the dandyism, making it his own signature.
Jim Fairfax is a New York-based interior designer, who in his witty play wished to present his exterior in a suit jacket and a vest in the not boring shade of dove gray, with high English shoulder and a dominant rounded lapel.
Karl Lagerfeld has reached a level of disturbing dandyism in the maturity of his fashion career. Weight loss and plastic surgery had to proclaim the convulsions of his fashion presence, but his mouth strongly reminded that of the elderly Coco Chanel, which resulted in a grimace over strictness and fashionable contempt.
Sir Cecil Walter Hardy Beaton CBE (1904-1980) was an English fashion, portrait and war photographer. He often photographed the Royal Family for official publication and was considered the most elegant man in England during the 30s and 40s.
Michael Fish is the absolute dandy of the 60s, who returned the baroque brocade liveries, shirts with plastron, quillings, frill and the whole excessiveness of Macaronism.
Charles Pierre Baudelaire was a French poet, essayist, art critic, and pioneering translator of Edgar Allan Poe, born in Paris, France, in 1821. His most famous work Les Fleurs du mal expresses the changing nature of beauty in modern, industrializing Paris during the 19th century.
Beau Brummell is credited with introducing and establishing the perfectly fitted and tailored bespoke garments as a trend in menswear. He is the 'father' of dandyism.
Brioni is the name of an island in the Adriatic Sea, close to the coast of former Yugoslavia. Before World War II it was a favorite getaway for the rich Europeans, and later - a favorite vacation spot for Yugoslav leader, Marshal Tito. Nazareno Fonticoli and Gaetano Savini chose the name of the island for their brand for two reasons...
The movie about Alexander McQueen, presented during the Sofia Film Fest, is a perfidiously satisfying direction of Andrew Haigh, who is pretty famous for his odious movies about male prostitution in London and for the pious unpleasant sides of homoerotic love and perversion.
In 1966, after 9 years at Turnbull & Asser and a short period as John Steven's assistant, Michael Fish opened his own store called 'Mr. Fish'. The exclusiveness of the store is determined by the high prices - usually about £35 for a jacket, £100 - for a suit, and £8-20 - for a shirt - defined by the generously used expensive fabrics.
'MAX & MORITZ tailored' collection happily gives meeting to several fashion institutions, reigning ultimately and horrific in the contemporary men's elegance - the traditions of Italian tailoring, English fashion prejudices, essentially embodied in the phenomenon of Macaronism, and a special hedonism associated with the concept soive.
It was full with Bohemian outfits in which Military elements are built, strange items such as corkscrews, which gave me carte blanche to move conceptually among them with my protruding from the pockets silver spoons, boutonnieres, vases and countless monarchical needles like a more gallant, but not old-fashioned scout.
At Kiton they sew definitely by hand with white cotton threads; the shoulder (so-called Neapolitan shoulder) - the most important element of a jacket - is shaped by hand to receive volume and is jacketed - also by hand - with silk threads.
I felt the greatest pleasure at the vintage stand, where I brought from dark wine red retrograde sunglasses with green lenses and gold inlaysand also a wonderful red wine pochette on green drops and a black bow tie with small green apples.
Lapo Elkann was Fiat's marketing manager and manager of brand promotion, he has the fame of a seducer, he is a friend of Henry Kissinger and is a passionate admirer of Juventus FC. Almost everything that assuaged peacefully in modern men's fashion today was part of Lapo's fashion experiments over the years. He is a classic - like the cut of the special cuff of his grandfather's shirts, so that his expensive watch can be seen ...
The single-breasted blazer has no military background. It comes from the club jackets that in the 19th century are worn by the British boating societies. The navy blue is not mandatory, although a single-breasted blazer in other colors is not commonly seen, despite the American love for blazers in bottle green, magenta or yellow.
Donegal Tweed - a great fabric for sport jackets, that could be perfectly matched with wool, silk or Irish Popelin (wool and silk blend) ties.
Shepherd's Check - much loved, comparatively rustic motif for Derby Tweed. There are different color combinations and figures sizes.
The Duke of Windsor - first as Prince of Wales and later while living in exile because of his sympathies for Hitler and his marriage to Wallies Simpson - loved to experiment, although the military uniforms perfectly matched his somewhat decadent face. I won't forget his breeches and boots during one walk with the Japanese princess through the gardens of Balmoral castle.
Rare colors - a museum of fashion. Crazy rivalry who is wearing a rarer color. An exhibiton of parrots. But rare colors are in the museum of clothing in Florence and have a genuine charm, cultivated from the time.
The large fruits of the tropical palm of the genus Phytelephas, which is also called 'tagua' or 'corozo' hide several brown seeds with very hard white core. It is very similar to ivory and that's why it is called 'vegetable ivory'. Local craftsmen produce wonderful miniature sculptors, valuing the similarity with the precious material.
Pitti Uomo gives stage not so much of the foisted fashion trends, but it's more like a chivalrous tournament between men who is the most elegant. That's why the eyes are crossed like rapiers and the arrogance is followed by unconcealed curiosity. But the protagonist is not so the elegant man but the taste...
The creator of this style is the previously mentioned Beau Brummell, who defines dandyism as the last burst of heroism in decadent ages and compares it with poetic creativity, with the most severe monastic discipline of keeping such a brilliant self-control, which surprises everyone, except a dandy.
When we say 'Neapolitan cut', we inevitably come to the most famous feature of the Neapolitan jacket - soft shoulder. This atlas, which holds on its shoulders, as the Italians say sullespalle, the secret of Italian male elegance, a great lightness achieved in a difficult way, the core of the concept of sprezzatura.
The wedding, which is a church sacrament and sentimental moment in the life of everyone, requires you making extraordinary effort for your dress style. The above standards are valid: tailcoat - in the evening and morning jacket - by day.
According to the Formal dress code, men wear classic suits, preferably black or evening blue. In some social circles Semi-formal can also mean Black Tie. But in the general case this is a term for the most informal of formal dress standards. Instead of belt, a vest and a bow tie in another color can be added to the tuxedo.
If Black Tie is written on the invitation, it means formal evening dress or tuxedo. It is worn only after 6 PA. Initially it appeared in the English aristocratic society as a garment suitable for smoking rooms, where gentlemen seclude, from where its name comes - a smoking jacket.
In the presence of great persons, dignitaries and officials in the evening men wear full evening wear, particularly - a tailcoat made of worsted yarn fabric, a white pique vest, a white shirt with a broker collar, again made of pique, with double cuffs and cufflinks, a white tie - a pique bow tie, white batiste pochette, black trousers with double satin edging...
For an official meeting of business nature a dark blue suit faintly striped or discretely checked is suitable. Blue ink, leaden, anthracite, mouse grey-brown, chocolate-brown are also suitable. Once again a white shirt with double cuffs with a monogram and cufflinks and a tie in black, in pastel colors, dotted, English or American stripes and in no case other figurines, flowers and Mickey Mouse.
The gentleman unthinkably loves the fine fabrics of Loro Piana, delicately dramatic folds of Napolisu Мisura, smartly nervous, yet perfect naturalness of hand stitching, more than sensual, thoughtful proportions almost in the sense of the canon of Polykleitos, museum memory of labels with a monogram and a date of sewing, flirting authenticity of buttonholes, semi-closeness of the garment above the most expressive part of the human body - arm.
The Menswear Guest Designer at Pitti Uomo 89 will be Juun.J. The Korean designer, whose creative research in menswear continues to attract the attention of the international fashion community show after show, will present his menswear collection for the first time in Florence with a one-of-a-kind event that will take place on Wednesday 13 January, at the Stazione Leopolda.