Whizz kid (or old master?) of the highest and most noble Italian tailoring traditions, Gabriele Pasini is already thinking about the “next generation” for his Autumn-Winter 2018/2019 Collection. He relentlessly seeks out directional pathways and new forms of expression for tomorrow’s “dress code”. What are the main coordinates on the roadmap? How does he intend to get there? Without doubt, using colours. Without doubt, bringing into play hi-tech materials. Without doubt, reworking/refreshing cuts, shapes and references, updating all the various items in the wardrobe with unusual choices.
Cesare Attolini presented its Fall/Winter 2018-2019 collection. Again, a timeless collection full of patterns, materials and style.
A colour explosion...prints, accessories and so much style...that we spotted on Pitti Uomo 94 edition. We present you the fashion trends we liked most for the upcoming Spring/Summer 2019 in menswear.
Tessitura Monti Autumn/Winter 2019: high quality fabrics for contemporary shirts suitable for every style
Autumn-Winter 2019/20 collection by Tessitura Monti presents new color combinations, special yarns and advanced finishing processes connected to the constant use of top quality raw materials: the results of this innovative search are fabrics matching refined aesthetics with comfort and excellent performance. Color is one of the most important novelties of this collection: tones are richer, more intense and varied if compared to the traditional winter proposal. Colors go from classic blue tones blending with military green and grey to the stronger and full tones of new red, brown and burnt joined by the new and important red violet.
Marras imagined a British-Sardinian gentleman, fond of hunting with hounds in the wild countryside, but driven by nostalgia and a sense of home. “His style is a mash-up of memories.” A feel of rustic elegance was threaded through the collection, which was focused on outerwear. Peacoats and parkas were patchworked from an array of tweeds, jacquards, corduroy velvets, tartans, and felted wools. Worn inside-out exposing soigne linings, they had oversize, protective proportions; and though they looked sporty and functional, they conveyed the typical Marras flair for eccentric practicality. The British-Sardinian nobleman in question was obviously fond of a dapper touch of tailoring. Indulging in thick, knitted robe de chambre and parading sumptuous brocade tuxedo jackets.
Etro for the presentation of its 50th anniversary men’s collection — presented at the cavernous Palazzo del Ghiaccio, the ice-skating rink in Milan — recruited the help of local auction houses to re-create the home of a dandy without the walls, with all of the items up for sale.
The deepening, immersive relationship between man and nature is a cultural and creative trend which has served as their inspiration for Autumn/Winter 2018. The latest collection balances the rugged textures and colours of the natural world with the clean lines of modern design to create a unique and well considered collection for the new season.
I decided to get back out there at the age of 54 and after having only always looked after my family as a mother and wife. I didn’t want to give up either my job or my family, but it is not possible to take care of everything at the same time. The line of the brand Maison Miseon is a mix between the oriental philosophy and the excellent Italian craftsmanship, it is intended to be essential and sporty and elegant at the same time. The clothing items fit people of any age, with a strong personality and they can be worn both during the working day and in the evening for having good time. I pay a lot of attention to the quality of the materials, which are mainly natural, I care of the details and the satisfaction of my clients.
American designer Thom Browne presented his Fall/Winter 2018 collection at Paris Fashion Week Men’s. Always one for theatrics, Browne transformed the catwalk into a winter wonderland complete with mounds of fake snow and birch trees.
Elective affinities are expressed in various ways: Ravazzolo - excellence in the world of suits and coats - meets Nardini - excellence in the production of distilled spirits.
Berluti’s Fall/Winter 2018 Pre-Collection by Haider Ackermann is an exercise in quietness and sartorial serenity: devoid of all distraction and visible ornament, clothes have a way of unveiling their artisanal know-how, clean architecture, hidden details and rich natural textures.
Featuring a distinctive European feel, their Fall 2018 collections offer outstanding value in the finest Italian fabrics.
At the only dedicated program in the U.S. that teaches the design and global operations of the fastest growing apparel segment, menswear with a focus on sportswear, students learn the hands-on skills to create a lifestyle menswear fashion collection. The Advisory Board includes heavy hitters Tom Julian, Trend Specialist; Aaron Ledet, VP, Americas Sourcing VF Corporation; and Joe Knoerschild, founding partner of Billabong and Hurley. Students learn sourcing and production first-hand on a Study Tour to Central America.
Embracing the colder months as an excuse to layer up and re-discover luxurious warm fabrics like cashmere and merino wool. It’s a chance to pair complimentary colours and contrasting textures; to balance rugged, weighty pieces with sleek tailoring.
As always, the fabrics are selected in partnership with the most prestigious companies in the trade. Soft movement is achieved by weaving different yarns in both faux-uni colours and mixed shades.
Looking to a bright future, Paul Smith’s autumn/winter’ 18 collection escapes to a more peaceful and positive place with dreamlike colours and motifs, fantastical embroidery and a softening of traditional sartorial codes.
On a secluded beach near his beloved Marseille, French designer Simon Porte Jacquemus unveiled his highly anticipated debut menswear collection. Awash with blues, yellows, creams and orange, the Spring/Summer 2019 offering conjures up images of long summery days in the south of France – where Jacquemus spent his childhood.
The collection takes as its starting point the elegant modernism of the British male, with references as diverse as the tailors of Savile Row to the styles favoured by the pony kids of Ireland. The look is restrained, balanced, committed, authentic; utilitarian but seductive nonetheless: sober tailoring, tidy ties, shrug-on trench coats, cable knits and fuss-free lace-up boots or trainers.
From St Moritz and Aspen to Kitzbuhel and Courchevel, this season the Billionaire man and his band of jet-set brothers are to be found high up in the mountains. As the sun sets over snowy peaks, they gather in an exclusive men’s club for an evening of apres ski entertainment. Some fly in from a business meeting on their private helicopter and others come straight from a day on the slopes, but they all arrive dressed to stand out in the crowd.
Stockholm’s Filmhuset forms the backdrop for the Tiger of Sweden Fall/ Winter 2018 collection. Alongside the rolling fields of Gardet just next to it, the building stands out against the sky with its radical architecture. Some would call it brutalist, we would rather describe it as humanist. However it is what goes on inside this building that truly matters. It was built as a haven for the art of film-making, filled with cinemas, production companies, costume rooms, a library, set-designs, studios and more.
Continuing to inspire and connect designers with the world’s best commercially available wool fabric and yarn manufacturers, The Woolmark Company will unveil the latest edition of The Wool Lab at Milano Unica, July 10 -12. Come and visit The Woolmark Company in Idea Biella – Pavilion 20 – Central Lounge and in Moda In – Pavilion 12 – Central Lounge.
Aggressive fashion - Those were the words Mary Sue used to describe her vision for the Ashbury Skies website. My heart started beating and shouting YES! Here is the thing- safe, tasteful, fashion is beautiful and it serves a roll in a complete wardrobe. But it’s not what makes your heart beat. Bold, standout fashion- that gets us excited. We had both worked for major retailers and have made lasting connections that helped us make our vision a reality- a collection that keeps fashion fun. If you’d like safe & practical, go to a department store or some other mega online retailer. If you want to smile every time you open your closet doors, then AshburySkies is your new favorite spot online.
This isn’t your typical Paris Men’s Fashion Week recap that includes explicit mention of the who’s who at the event to the ambiance and sets as well as the never ending looks on glamour and style, most of which indicate what we’ll be seeing and wearing in spring and summer of 2019.
The Acne Studio show had all the ingredients of a minimalist approach to vibrant colours and design elements that gel together in strikingly cool ways. With a palette of soft muted hues to saturated tones that add warmth and depth to classic silhouettes.
With all the glitz and glamour at Paris Fashion Week Namacheko added a unique flavour that was reflected in the head turning ensembles of the Swedish/ Kurdish label. Launched by brother and sister duo- Dilan and Lezan Lurr, the brand has come a long way since its humble beginnings in 2017.
The Issey Miyake show at Paris Men’s Fashion Week-Day 3 may have been many things but nothing as apparent as the fusion of different styles, iconic feels and wrapped up in some of the best prints seen so far. Instead of just using words alone, below are some points and pictures of just how inspired and artfully eclectic this particular collection was.
What made the Wooyoungmi show unlike any of the others was the cool and interesting tie between retro elements combined with country inspired feels with a modern twist. The striking colour palette that had soothing hues drawn from nature such as buttercup yellow, dusky blue, earth tones, maroon and pale grey. The prints added further interest and authenticity to the looks that included stripes, plaid, checks and textures. Modern twists were reflected in the accessorizing, the bags, boots and hair.
Ever rebellious – Raf Simons waged a full-fledged war against the current cloud of street-wear styles hovering over the fashion world. In the time where some of the biggest names in luxury fashion are ditching luxury for street and sportswear, none more evident than Louis Vuitton's selection of Virgil Abloh as artistic director earlier this year, Raf vowed to focus on traditional menswear garments, even for new generation.
Another highly anticipated show at Paris Men's Fashion Week was the Dior Homme show that many had been looking forward to all week. Not only did the show live up to many high fashion expectations, the collection was a resounding success, then again; how could it not be, as it involved a prince, a talented artist and a double debut. Which in short means, that the House of Dior had in its wings a multitude of talented individuals working together to present a fresh take on the future of fashion from this global powerhouse.
The postponement of the Balmain Homme show according to schedule was well worth the wait. Olivier Rousteing delivered yet another collection based on rock influence, but rotating the looks around variants of glam from past eras, creating this blend of rock glamour through the decades but with a modern interpretation. So yes it was a relief to see no big hair, bold makeup and excessive piercings and tattoos.
The Alexander McQueen show for Spring/Summer 2019 was one of the best in terms of originality and style while still staying true to the brand’s design aesthetic, not forgetting the subtle inclusion of the unexpected, which is always a treat for the eyes. A very strikingly cool combination of razor sharp classic silhouettes vs a totally edgy biker-esque attitude made for interesting bedfellows to start with. The collection had a grunge glam kind of essence that moved between each ensemble with an energy that just had everyone’s attention.
Nothing could be as simple, innovative and with an impactful essence of Avant Garde than Hed Mayner at Paris Men’s Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2019. A very intense subdued palette set the tone for the dramatic cuts, silhouettes, drapery and more, as the audience watched in amazement. The only visible colour was candy pink and powder blue in various tones and the only print was the pinstripes that were used to the minimum.
Perhaps one of the highly anticipated shows by far at Paris Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2019 was the Louis Vuitton show which showcased the work of Louis Vuitton debut designer Virgil Abloh. While the collection as expected was inspired, cohesive and very dissimilar to what Louis Vuitton customers are used to, it did wow the audience for the most part leaving a bitter sweet sentiment on many present. Given the shift of style aesthetic this scribe found an interesting cross-road between classic and artsy which added a new flavour to fashion from the brand.
The mere mention of Rick Owens and the first thing that comes to mind is breaking the rules. Hence the show that had everything from drama, deconstructed silhouettes, exaggerated elements, architectural shapes, all moved in unison with the aesthetics of the man himself. The styling and attitude of the models, the raw grunge feels and minimalist approach made this collection one of those that moved into a league of its own.
Glenn Martens of the Parisian brand Y Project showed range and diversity through a collection that was inspired, playful and uplifting. From tailored pieces to unique interpretations of blazer jackets and trench coats, the use of a striking palette having strong neutrals, bright hues of energizing yellow, warm orange and royal purple and blue. Speaking of blue, the eye-catching inclusion of denim in powder blue and indigo adds further energy and life to a collection that is young and carefree.
On a palette of fun, youthful colours, dominated by shades of blue, a dash of yellow, white, black and orange, Off-White designer Virgil Abloh showed a multi-dimensional look at the many ways to wear denim, adding visual interest with distressed denim, textures, knits, fleece and parachute that gels well with the quirky elements of animation, oversized silhouettes, camouflage and tie ‘n’ dye all to show-off his cool range of footwear that is a jogger and lace-up that have a chunky, army-esque appeal that is sure to liven up spring and summer of 2019.
From the abstract to the outlandish, the vibrant colours to the creative techniques of layering. Hiromichi Ochiai for Facetasm showed a collection that was every bit as eccentric as it was artistically reflective of current day global village. Including an interesting mix of different art-forms, silhouettes, styles and sentiments that evoke curiosity while hinging on folklore and the beauty of story-telling. Here’s just how Facetasm fascinated us at Paris Men’s Fashion Week for 2019.
Designers Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund of Cmmn Swdn made opening night to Paris Men's Fashion Week every bit as memorable as the impact, energy and social awareness the collection had on the audience. Against a background of what looked like the landfills or somewhere in between, where many garments end up as waste and staying true to the hybrid element the brand is known for, the pieces shown couldn't have been any more hybrid than it was. An interesting mix of youthfulness and subculture, a mix of old-world aesthetics and contemporary, tipping the future of fashion vibes that were both edgy and elegantly sleek.
The GmbH show was not only unique but had that special eclectic quality while being relevant, fun and fashion-forward. Designer duo Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander pulled out all stops, no doubt; to deliver a showing of a collection I can see many people wearing in their own individual ways. It was personalised and pleasurable.
Craig Green’s style mixes workwear influences and futuristic volumes, sculpted silhouettes and functional aspects. Strong content is teamed with a highly emotion-charged mise en scene that is always spectacular. Thanks to these distinguishing features, Craig Green has gained an enthusiastic clientele that includes the most prestigious boutiques and department stores around the world. Exploring the concepts of uniform and utility, his fashion shows have become an eagerly awaited cult happening on the menswear calendar. In Florence, this London-born designer presented his Spring/Summer 2019 collection with an event at Pitti Immagine Uomo on the evening of Thursday 14 June.
The collection commences with Franklin Eugene Fury, a stunning multi color blazer, and quickly segues to several light and breezy shirts in black and white before making a bold return to color with a nod to WAKANDA. The presentation smoothly shifts gears to several audacious teal and black installations. Next, we have a FRANKLIN EUGENE homecoming of sorts with an abundance of ultra clean black and white colorless silhouettes that magnificently channel the clean lines and affect that remain hallmarks of the brand.
The Smarter Balanced Assessment Consortium, popular by its nickname SBAC, is a graded exam consortium which is created by the Common Core State Standards which is adopted by a number of states. The test comes with automatic essay scoring. The main aim of the consortium is to become the leading provider of the multi-state test in connection with the Partnership for the Assessment of Readiness for the Colleges and Careers, also known as PARCC.
The Brioni Fall/Winter 2018 wardrobe explores sartorial archetypes for the discerning man of the 21st century. It relies on the assumption that design in our mobile, highly challenging world should be about the search for relevant clothes. To this end, Brioni concentrated on the core pieces of a man’s needs, in an approach that is more evolutionary than season oriented. Revisions may appear subtle. Closer inspection will reveal the guiding principle: to rethink everyday icons in the interest of the uttermost quality and luxurious comfort.
Watching the London courtesy but maintaining a strong bond with the Italian traditions, this is the synthesis of the Spring Summer 2018 Tagliatore collection. Jackets and dust coats describe a research made of changes, a symbol of the contemporary and influences. Rock music and classical elegance are united in a harmonious concert which draws inspiration from thought and culture.
A collection where sartorial cuts are mixed with playfulness and a pinch of impertinence in bright colors and couplings of classic and hi-tech fabrics. The autumn winter 2018/2019 of Alessandro Gilles, a man's fashion brand from Campania born in 2006, sees the timeless style of classic tailoring, combined with passe-partout, more sporty, made of high quality fabrics exclusively made in Italy.
Cashmere. Argyle. The Twinset. Cardigans for British (and Hollywood) royalty. All made famous, made relevant and in some instances made for the first time, by this knitwear company, whose origins lie in the unassuming town of Hawick, Scotland, United Kingdom.
From the lively color palette, to the selected spring materials and elegant designs, the elements come together for a contemporary take on tailored clothing.
The Spring/Summer 2018 collection by Ravazzolo is built on a tourbillion of sharp lines, the utmost expression of style details and ton-surton micro patterns. The suits are increasingly dynamic and the actual concept of outerwear is reinterpreted in terms of lightness, comfort and handmade details. Fits are slimmed down, reversible fabrics dominate jackets and suits.
Tailoring starts out clean, almost puritanical; austere. Precisely cut double-breasted jackets are worn over ivory leather bib-fronted shirts with slim fitted trousers finished with a broad, leather stripe. Long tailored coats with peak lapels and equally pared down trouser suits are cut in bonded black and scarlet leather. Outerwear is re-constructed: pieced and patched in camel and differing scales of Prince of Wales check in graphic shades of black, scarlet and ivory. An oversized cotton gabardine trench coat is reversed and inset with a wool silk jacquard patchwork of contrasting check. Cotton broderie anglaise shirts are paired simply with white poplin cropped trousers or layered with Fair Isle-inspired knits, one of which is pieced and patched together from socks, the once heel now forming the elbow.
Boglioli presented its spring-summer 2018 collection at Pitti Uomo. Approaching the season, the fashion label keeps in mind the key words lightness and wearability. These ideas manifest themselves into two capsule collections and a must-own jacket. Boglioli is proud of its new Riva jacket, which features patch pockets.